In an age where companies are always evolving new designs and where the fashion industry, for example, brings out new collections seasonally, Ruffs have striven for years to come up with an original take on the signet ring. It’s a big ask, though, because the signet ring is such a traditional product and shouldn’t be all-singing, all dancing with bells on by any means.



Quite by chance, however, we came upon a new and exciting design. We had made a signet ring, with an engraved bloodstone, for a young officer in Her Majesty’s Forces and, given the nature of his profession, it wasn’t long before he had smashed the stone to pieces!

On being asked to replace it, we presumed to wonder if it wouldn’t happen again and perhaps we should re-think the stone. Working in conjuction with our customer we suggested that the stone should be substituted with a metal tablet of the same carat as the 18ct yellow gold ring but of a different colour for contrast. Thus the two-tone gold signet ring was born.

It is a design we have repeated for several customers and has been so very successful that we have created one of our own with the Ruff bird and it can be seen on our web site as a moving image....

Knight Frank
Ruffs were thrilled to be commissioned by leading estate agents, Knight Frank, to produce a set of cufflinks to commemorate their partners serving either 15 (silver) or 25 years (gold) with the company. Knight Frank were founded in 1896 and specialise in high quality residential and commercial property throughout the world, with 207 offices in 43 different countries.

“Designing a set of corporate cufflinks is not always easy”, explained Mark Ruff, “because, when a company spends thousands of Pounds having a logo designed, the thought that they might one day want cufflinks based on that design is hardly in the brief. At the outset the logo is used on letterheads, promotional material and in their advertising as the company endeavours to build itself up as a brand. Only later will it be used more extensively”.

“Quite often a corporate logo lends itself immediately to cufflinks and I can think of the Owl we evolved for the International Herald Tribune or the S of the superb logo used by British Steel once upon a time”. The one involved creating a die and pressing the Owl out within its own oval frame; the S of British Steel lent itself particulary well to being interpreted in blue enamel”.

“The Knight Frank logo is somewhat esoteric and required quite a lot of thought. We considered a number of approaches before settling on a design that is carefully engine-turned on to an oval link. The technique worked especially well for the set we made for senior partner, Rupert Johnson, who chose a rose gold to echo the red version of their logo and no doubt his Patek Philippe rose gold watch!

Mike Tindall
Mike Tindall asked Ruffs to produce sets of cufflinks for himself, his Best Man and five ushers for his recent marriage to Zara Phillips in Edinburgh. Apart from being England’s current rugby captain, Mr. Tindall also enjoys shooting and for this occasion chose Woodcock cufflinks, which form part of the Ruff Shootin’ range of jewellery for the countrysportsman.

These links were made extra special through having a plain oval side, as opposed to the straight bar of the standard Woodcocks as seen on the web site, which was then engraved with each individual’s initials.

The RUFF SHOOTIN’ range evolved slowly but surely following a one-off commission for a pair of cuflinks to celebrate and I quote a “Right and Left at Woodcock”. (Double Dutch to a Townie!!)

A “Right and Left at Woodcock” is the expression given to shooting one woodcock with one barrel and another woodcock with the other barrel without re-loading. It might sound a simple enough feat but the woodcock is a solitary bird and one rarely finds two in sufficiently close proximity.

The initial set was carefully researched at the local library and a model painstakingly carved in wax. Woodcocks were so well received by the client that they were re-made for Ruffs general range of up-market jewellery.

The response to subsequent advertisements in the likes of “Country Life” and “The Field” confirmed their attraction not only to achievers of the “Right and Left at Woodcock” but also to shooting people everywhere.

At about this time Woodcocks were shown to Tony Jackson, then editor of the specialist magazine, “Shooting Times”, and he was impressed enough to give mention of them in that publication and in particular to members of the newly formed Shooting Times Woodcock Club. They have proved popular within the club but, it should be stressed, they are not solely for achievers of the “Right and Left at Woodcock”.

One of the first purchasers of Woodcocks invited us to make him a matching set of Grouse cuff links. Through strong ties with the STWC, we were able to seek the advice of Colin McKelvie at the Game Conservancy at Fordingbridge, down the road in Hampshire and where we had access to more specialised reference books on the subject and one or two stuffed examples. Grouse are made extra special by being made only in red gold or red gold plate on sterling silver.

Partridge and Pheasant were the obvious successors and the same amount of meticulous research and carving also went into their creation. The result is four sets of very unique cuff links, each pair of which is still finished by hand.

Ruffs/Alan Titchmarsh: A New Crest
Alan Titchmarsh, the well known gardener and television presenter, was recently appointed High Sheriff of the Isle of Wight and successfully petitioned for a Grant of Arms through the College of Arms in London. To commemorate this he commissioned signet rings for himself, his wife and two daughters from Ruffs, the bespoke signet ringmakers.


The College of Arms in Queen Victoria Street, London is the official body in England to grant Coats of arms. Any eminent subject of the crown is entitled to be granted a new Coat of Arms. Each applicant upon making contact is assigned a Herald who will see the project through from start to finish. In Alan Titchmarsh’s case, the particular Herald was Mr. Thomas Woodcock, Norroy & Ulster King of Arms. The College Heralds have carried out their work on the present site since 1555 and there are three Kings of Arms who sign off new arms and crests depending on their location in the UK.  The Heralds and Pursuivants are on duty on a rota for one week at a time and it is a matter of luck which Herald receives an individual’s call or application. When not looking after would-be armigers, Heralds’ other duties include leading the Queen into the State Opening of Parliament, or being in attendance at the Garter Service. Heralds also carry out much historical detective work investigating peerage claims, and coats of arms on silverware for example.  

Arms can include any number of facets relating to the applicant’s life and these elements are then cleverly and graphically woven into a design. Such elements might include honours from the Crown, civil or military commissions, university degrees, professional qualifications, public charitable services and eminence or good standing in local life. Often applicants are asked to submit their curriculum vitae to help the Herald piece together the strands of a person’s life from which to construct the design.

The Arms will comprise a crest, a helmet, and a shield. This is all enveloped by mantling and there is the option of a motto and badge. The badge can duplicate the crest but is an opportunity for another device.

Alan Titchmarsh’s, crest is a Lion rampant leaning on a garden spade, as a light-hearted nod towards his most well-known occupation.  The shield shows three robins – each singing and clasping a white rose of Yorkshire in its claw – a reference to gardening, music – another love – and Mr Titchmarsh’s birthplace.  His motto is et stylo et rutro – by pen and spade.

Once approved the text is engrossed by a scrivener and artist, signed and sealed by the King of Arms and it is put into the official College registers. The Letters Patent, as the document is called, then becomes the property of the Grantee.

Alan Titchmarsh now had an official, ratified coat of arms from which he wanted to take the crest element alone and commemorate it on a signet ring as a lasting memento. Alan is a Country Life reader and, as he says, “Country Life read by the gentry and me” in his typically self-deprecating manner.

It was in Country Life that Alan spotted an advertisement for Ruffs, bespoke signet ringmakers. Based in Hampshire, Ruffs has a history dating back to 1904 and a reputation for creating bespoke jewellery especially signet rings.

The commission to Ruffs was for a set of four signet rings: one for Alan, his wife and two daughters. Each client is special to Ruffs and they are treated as such by first gaining an accurate finger-size and then choosing the shape of the ring taking due account of the engraving to go thereon. From the classic straight oval to the round, or the Oxford or even a more modern octagon, there are many different styles to suit all tastes.
Once the basic ring is decided upon and made, the engraver then translates the artwork into a three-dimensional carving in reverse. It is cut this way so that an impression can be taken from the ring by pushing it carefully into warm wax. Although this is of little practical use in the 21st Century, it is nonetheless the traditional way to engrave a signet ring. Each new ring comes with its own unique wax impression - the proof of the pudding, as it were.

Mark Ruff commented: “We make rings for people from all over the world - many using devices handed down through generations - and so it was especially pleasing to work on a brand new Grant of Arms, containing as it does that lovely heraldic joke of the rampant Lion leaning on a spade!!”